Category Archives: Uncategorized

Removal of the BMW E34 Rear door main trim panel

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Step 1: Turn and remove the pull knob

By hand, we turn and remove the pull knob.

After removal:

Step 2: Pry free the cosmetic cap behind the interior door handle

We use a straight pick to pry free the cosmetic cap behind the interior door handle.

Caution: It is easy to scratch this part, or the surrounding area.

After removal:

The door hollow, after removal of the cosmetic cap:

Step 3: Pry free the armrest cosmetic cap

We use a straight pick to pry free the cosmetic cap on the armrest.

The armrest, after removal of the armrest cosmetic cap:

Step 4: Pull free the ashtray

The door panel after removal of the ashtray:

Step 5: Remove the three screws

We use a medium Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws just uncovered:

  • Inside the interior door handle hollow
  • Inside the armrest
  • In the ashtray area

After removal:

Step 6: Push free the plastic clips

We use a non-marring pry tool to push free each of the nine plastic clips attaching the trim panel to the painted metal of the door: three at the front, three at the bottom, three at the rear.

The bottom, front and rear sides each have anchors that can easily break loose of the panel, so we reach in with the pry tool and push away each clip, instead of yanking the panel away from the door.

A view of two of the clips and anchors:

This picture of the door, after removal of the trim panel, shows the holes where each of the nine clips fits into. 

Below is a picture of what you are trying to avoid: the black plastic anchor was pulled free of the door panel because someone pulled on the panel, instead of focusing on the clip and prying the clip free.

Step 7: Push away the top of the door panel

We use a non-marring pry tool to push away the top of the door panel from the row of metal clips by the window. This picture shows the clips, after the door panel has been lifted free.

Step 8: Lift upward the door panel

By hand, we lift upward the door panel from the central support.

Attached to the center of the door panel is a metal bracket that rests on a black plastic support attached to a metal tongue that is firmly attached to the metal of the door. For this reason, we pull the door panel up, to free it.

Step 9: Detach the window switch wiring

By hand, we detach the electrical wiring plug that goes to the window switch. The picture shows the back of the switch after the wiring plug has been detached.

Step 10: Detach the cable hook

By hand, we detach the cable hook attached to the back of the interior door handle.

We can now put aside the trim panel, since this frees it up.

Step 11: Remove the white clips

Sometimes the attachment clips need to be removed and replaced. We use the medium flat-bladed screwdriver, stuck inside a slot of the clip, to rotate and push to an angle each of the white clips.

Caution: A badly damaged clip can take ten minutes to remove, so patience pays off in avoiding damage.

Success!

At the end of this procedure, we have removed the door trim panel, with the electric window switch, interior door handle and armrest still attached.

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BMW E28 Fuse Box

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This article discusses the fuse box for the E28.

A client with a 1998 BMW E28 M5 contacted me, looking for a fuse box. His car`s fuse box had melted in one or more areas, and he figured it’d be prudent to replace it.

I was sure that I didn’t have a unit in stock specific to the M5, so my tech looked into this in more detail. The best available information she found showed that the part number is 6113 1369596 and that all E28 variants use this same part number.

Interestingly enough, the 1981-1982 BMW E23 7-series also uses this same part number — but only those model years.

Allegedly, the accessory fan and A/C fuses are the ones that have problems with melting, and a box with no melting is rare.

BMW E28 and E34 5-Series M20 Engine Drive Belt Preventative Maintenance Interval

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This article discusses the ideal interval between drive belt replacements for the E28 and E34 with the M20 engine. I’m focused here on the belt that drives the alternator and water pump, not the timing belt. We might as well include the belts for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, respectively.

Obviously, it’s a good idea to replace the drive belts regularly. As to what “regularly” means: when I started to write this article, I didn’t know a good answer to that question. I still don’t, though I read someone official-sounding suggesting that a good interval is anywhere from 40K to 70K. That seems reasonable to me. BMW probably has an official number too, but that no doubt is highly conservative, and it also presumes original BMW equipment, which most people probably don’t use on a 30-year old car.

I’ve had a drive belt fail on my 1987 BMW, and it was disconcerting to see the alternator warning light come on and then to see the temperature gauge slowly climbing while my conscience was whispering: “you DO know this engine has an aluminum head, and you know what happens to these when they overheat, yes?”

This sort situation is best avoided. I replace the timing belt on my M20-engined cars every 60K miles. Replacing the drive belts then too . . . that’s my new, improved plan.